Four years ago the villagers of Ssumakussu found a grove of sacred red cypress trees, the largest of which required a chain of 20 people to encircle it. The tree resembles a giant whose powerful arms are raised and open, and its discoverer, neighborhood chief Tseng Chen-chuan, has named it "Ta Lao Ye," which means "big old gentleman."
Tseng recalls that the villagers' ancestors had spoken of many large sacred trees on the lower slopes of White Snow Mountain, but because modern-day villagers hadn't ever actively looked for the trees, they hadn't found them. Four years ago, Tseng Chen-chuan decided to make a search, which revealed the truth behind the legend. The grove is vast, extending all the way to Yuanyang Lake.
Starting from the back of the village, the trip to the grove takes about two hours and follows a trail that villagers collectively built and maintain. Along the way, one sees how the villagers, using slash-and-burn agriculture techniques, have burned the wild grasses to fertilize the soil for pear and honey peach trees. At another point, a grove of bamboo looms over the narrow path. The trail's most dangerous section is a steep 100-meter-long stretch of broken rock, but the rest of the way is easy going, with lots of water in evidence.
To facilitate road construction and tourism, Tseng and his brother have used local lumber and bamboo to build a dormitory that can hold about 80 people. It offers tourists complete bathroom facilities and charges NT$250 a night. But because it is far off the beaten track and requires a Class A mountain entry permit, most of its guests come on weekends and holidays.
Because visitors are sometimes disrespectful of the environment, villagers have erected fences around the sacred trees to prevent tourists from climbing them. Ssumakussu requires those wishing to visit the grove to take a guide from the village (NT$1,200), a rule that puts a check on mischief.
[Picture Caption]
On Sunday, while the adults are at church, village children guide visitors to where the holy trees are found.
(below) The deep ravine is the biggest obstacle to transportation links, but is also what has helped Ssumakussu to remain unsullied.
It takes twenty people to join hands around this holy tree, claimed to be the largest in Taiwan.
（below） The deep ravine is the biggest obstacle to transportation links, but is also what has helped Ssumakussu to remain unsullied.
It takes twenty people to join hands around this holy tree, claimed to be the largest in Taiwan.
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