The science of making ice
While Chen had taken the long way to get there, his background in engineering helped him approach his work more scientifically. Combined with his training in Western cuisine and his proclivity for shaking things up, Chen was able to put Double V in a class of its own.
Those who have eaten Double V’s desserts all know how amazing they are. Not only is there an ever-changing list of options being invented, but Chen also manages to keep the same fine texture for each and every flavor.
Making gelato is an art which fuses science and flavor. Since every ingredient undergoes different physical changes at different temperatures, making gelato is an especially challenging test of how well a master knows his ingredients. Each of the signature flavors at Double V has its own independent recipe. This is not only for flavor considerations, but also to ensure that each variety of gelato is equally soft when refrigerated under the same conditions.
To date, Double V has invented more than 450 different recipes, and the menu changes with the seasons. The winter menu features more mellow flavors like those of cream liqueurs, whiskey, and nuts, while the summer has more fruit. In following the seasons, Double V illustrates the intricacy and breadth of frozen desserts. Even with classic vanilla, the winter and summer recipes differ, as winter recipes tend to be rich, while summer’s are refreshing. Common flavors like matcha and brown sugar can be made into five or even ten separate recipes, allowing a single ingredient to be interpreted in a surprising number of ways. With his background in Western cuisine, Willson Chen can even draw inspiration from classic desserts, such as when he turned the fillings of caramel apple and lemon tarts into frozen versions of the two.
Willson Chen says that regular desserts can be made with one ornate layer after another, but the more unassuming frozen desserts need to “knock ’em dead” with a single bite. Even so, in the apparent simplicity of his gelato lies a meticulous attention to detail.
Every detail in the shop, from the individually stored tubs of gelato to the flat scoops, exudes a professional air.
Lacking funds for a neon sign for his first shop, Willson Chen chose to simply have the shop name spray-painted onto the wall, something which later became a distinctive feature of Double V.
Double V is constantly looking for something new and fresh, meaning they don’t keep a large stock. The gelato chefs often work with many different ingredients in small quantities.
Double V, whose sign lights up in the evening when it opens, provides sweet and refreshing gelato to those tired from a day’s work.