An entrepreneur’s precious brew
While many students studying abroad end up staying in the host country and seeking jobs after graduation, Shen was intent on returning home to Thailand and starting a career that would put her studies to practical use. She worked hard to develop a business around the local coffee crop.
Pha Tang’s coffee is cultivated in highlands between 1,200 and 1,600 meters above sea level. Production is limited by the paucity of arable land, and competition with large-scale producers is not possible.
Moreover, the retail price of roasted coffee beans is many times the wholesale cost of the raw beans. The coffee sold in the shop, which costs 100 baht and up per serving, is far too pricey for the farmers who grow it.
It is one of the high-quality products that have resulted from support by the Royal Project. They are popular among Thai customers and foreign tourists who often buy them as gifts.
Shen is well aware that the coffee grown in northern Thailand is widely known only in Thailand and that among the coffee-growing regions of Southeast Asia, coffee produced in Indonesia and Vietnam is more famous. During our interview this seems to pain her, yet it only increases her determination to promote northern Thai coffee and ensure that the world learns that good coffee is also to be found in the plantations of northern Thailand.
“Good coffee can be bad coffee, but bad coffee is still bad coffee,” she says.
Each step in the process of making a rich cup of coffee, from planting to pouring, takes specialized professional skills. Cultivating coffee requires specialist knowledge through each step from harvesting to selling. The skillful application of professional knowledge can increase the value of the coffee. These were the skills she had learned in Taiwan—business management, marketing, how to process coffee beans and how to assess their quality. Each step must be given its proper attention to produce good coffee.
Such was her thinking when she started her business.
But looking back at how she opened her shop in her twenties without much of a plan, she thinks that her impulsiveness was really risky. She admits that the inexperienced entrepreneur that she was back then had thoughts about giving up on the business.
“Being a coffee drinker doesn’t mean you’ll be successful at opening a coffee shop, and studying management doesn’t mean you’ll know how to run it,” she says.
She has persevered through all her hardships, learning through experience. Since the shop opened in October 2014, 93Army Coffee’s customers have been able to drink a brew made from pure Arabica coffee beans and nibble on Taiwanese-style guabao sandwiches.
Interested in all things coffee, she also earned her barista certification in the United States and is often invited to serve as a judge or consultant for coffee competitions. She is both an entrepreneur and an educator and is frequently sought out by visitors from Thailand and abroad who want to study her specialized knowledge or learn how to become baristas.
A martial atmosphere permeates 93Army Coffee, and army green is also featured in the food and beverages. (courtesy of Liz Shen)